The Brie and Merlot Diet

Dr. Atkins plied us with bunless burgers. The South Beach Diet insists that ricotta cheese with lemon extract and no-cal sweetener is a fine dessert. Diets work, but after a while a person gets tired of skimping. This explains the runaway sales of Mireille Guiliano's new book, French Women Don't Get Fat --a title any American who has roamed the streets of Paris recognizes as a mysterious truth.

American tourists watch French women stroll into patisseries, buy chocolate at Jeff de Bruges and wine on Rue Cler, and have lunch complete with baguette--and wine, and a tart. The next thing they notice is that these women, many middle-aged and beyond, are not wearing elastic-waist pants from Chico's. They conclude the French are blessed with souped-up DNA that lets their thin-thighed bodies metabolize lunch before dessert hits the table.

The real reason only 10 percent of French adults are obese--a slim statistic next to 30 percent of adult Americans--is attitude, along with common sense.

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